The Journey to Erbil
In preference to direct flights to Iraqi Kurdistan, I always choose the more intriguing scenic route through Turkey. However, even by previous standards, this felt like a grueling journey.
Spending time in Istanbul and the more glamorous west of Turkey and shortly descending to the more impoverished south eastern part of Turkey could not be more contrasting.
The humble road to Silopi is an intriguing journey through a revealing landscape and a story of political legacies. Part of the road, particularly near Nusaybin, runs in parallel with the Syrian border, or Syrian Kurdistan as most Kurds are quick to point out. This legacy of divided lives and lost citizenships runs almost a century old, with adjacent border lines divided almost symmetrically by barbed fences, where families were literally separated between both lands, and left with the option of been assimilated into Turkish or Syrian nationalities, or in the case of Syria not existing at all.
The bumpy route through the heartland of eastern Turkey is a revealing one. It is evidently been a disenfranchised and impoverished region as a result of decades of conflict and neglect by successive Ankara governments. The infrastructure of what is effectively one-fourth or one-fifth of Turkey, a country with EU ambitions, is lacking and tells its own story. It clearly feels like a neglected region and even more clearly demonstrates that with unemployment high, and the region very much behind, the Turkish government has an obvious starting point to entice the people into their line of thinking and at the same time discourage support for separatists.
Most Turkish Kurds that I spoke with were not advocates or great believers of separatism and were not necessarily anti-Turkey or ant-Turkish for that matter, but wanted improved living standards, jobs and full cultural recognition. The battle against the PKK, is an easy battle for Turkey to win if it chooses to do so, however the battle starts in Diyarbakir and not in the mountains.
Past elections have demonstrated that Kurds can be swayed towards Turkish parties such as the AKP, if they truly live up to their promises to promote the region and continue to introduce reforms. The GAP project and other initiates in Ankara have been much talked about, but Kurds appear still to be waiting for promises to translate into real action on the ground.
By the time I got to the Ibrahim Khalil border gate and packed with thoughts on the region, I was now absolutely tired. However, as it was now 03:30 in the morning and having just crossed into the Iraqi Kurdistan side of the border, I decided to press ahead with my journey towards Erbil. I could not help thinking that the implementation of the new border gates on the Turkish side, new outposts and a quicker checking process, was a reflection of the warming of Turkey towards the region. However, improved border gates, miles of lorries waiting to cross with all sorts of food items, electronic products and building materials, may not necessarily be such a good gauge after all, I thought to myself. Relationships still remain murky on an official level and I doubt Turkeys stance to seeing the Kurdistan flags been flown across the Habur Gate will have become any easier.
The growing commerce and the huge number of Turkish companies, prove that there is a clear benefit in good relationships to both sides. Certainly, a lot of Kurds that I spoke with on previous visits leaned heavily towards Turkey as a partner that can carry the region forward and hopefully in the near future open a front to the EU and all the privileges that this brings.
If the journey was not already bad enough, I was soon faced with a relentless sandstorm that had not only seemingly clouded the whole region but had blinded my taxi driver.
A fierce sandstorm, a tight single carriage highway, with lorry drivers seemingly on a mission to break some speed record to reach the border, was only worsened by the claim of my driver that he had not slept into two days. Great! This Left me without much hope. In all fairness, the driver did not seem fazed by the obstacles, or those self-inflicted ones for that matter. I was left wondering if it’s a Kurdish thing to live your life on the edge, with many undeterred by dangers or challenges that they face. Wearing a seat-belt appears a forbidden tradition to some youngsters though it may law, even my family finds it amusing as I buckle up when I get in the car. If you could see some of the driving, you would not blame me for holding on tight!
Arriving in Erbil
Every time I visit the region, I always keenly anticipate the improvements in the region, particularly Erbil. While not Istanbul, Erbil has fast become a city that the Kurds can be proud of. The city itself has a strong historical legacy but has never quite lived up to its ancient status. Kurds hope they can now change that.
In spite of the rapid development, it is very easy to point out deficiencies in Erbil, especially for someone who has lived for over 20 years in London and has travelled far and wide across the globe. Erbil has a long way to go, but the transformation from mass destruction and repression under dictatorship, to self-rule post-1991 is nothing short of remarkable.
Nowadays, the expectations of the population, particularly the younger generation, who have never experienced Baathist rule, are sky-high. Rebuilding and modernizing Erbil, a city whose development that was hardly going to be a pressing priority of Saddam Hussein, was almost like a standing start. Kurds needed all sorts of things from roads, hospitals and general social infrastructure.
There are many construction projects dotting the landscape, especially on the more prominent parts of Erbil. This felt like a bubbly place that has not heard about the global economic recession. The city however is still a work in progress. Kurds are eager to have a city centre built around the ancient Citadel, that they can be proud of.
Older less appealing buildings have started to be demolished around the centre, to be replaced by more attractive gardens.
The road systems have certainly improved with new by-passes and highways connecting major cities. However, this is no surprise with the immense number of cars in circulation. At the rate of new cars, road workers will need to continue widening and expanding indefinitely! With commerce thriving and development at such a rapid rate, the Kurdistan Regional Government (KRG) must also implement a modern infrastructure that can support it.
The local population seems as keen as ever to modernize. With multiple new malls such as Rhein Mall and Nishtiman mall, fashion tastes are expanding, although admittedly well-beyond the price range of the poor. Trading is high and there are now new car outlets selling brand new vehicles.
The city is clearly booming, but that is not to say that one should divert too much attention to the better aspects. There are still scores of poor who suffer from rising prices and run-away property prices. The price of land has seen a meteoric rise in recent years as development in the region by both local and foreign investors has increased the demand for land.
The other half of the glass
With ever increasing publicity for the region and a continuous expansion of commerce, it’s hard not too focus on the positives. This is made all the more prominent since 2003, with the south of Iraq engulfed in deadly violence and instability. The Kurds have tried to showcase Kurdistan as a gateway to the rest of Iraq.
However, positives aside, Erbil is far from perfect. Prices of car and land have put enormous pressure on sections of the population and a lot Kurds still lack basic services. The sewage system in large parts of the city and the region are still basic or nonexistent. A lack of electricity supply has been a ubiquitous struggle. As noted before to support and tout such large scale development, there must also be the premise of a sufficient infrastructure to support such an ambitious strategy.
The case of electricity is a prime example. The increased supply of electricity has been greatly diluted by the much more increasing rate of demand. New buildings, malls and expanding roads and infrastructure, requires a support structure that the old system simply could never cope with.
People seem generally happy, but frustrations with public services remain. Sections of the population feel that the government needs to now deliver on certain fronts.
Whilst the people have generally kept their feet on the ground, it is easy to see how the growing money in circulation in region has greatly altered mindsets. There is a feeling that people are at times in competition with their neighbors and their relatives, for obtaining better houses, better cars etc.
While mentalities have headed towards the new era, some aspects bring natural curiosity. The “litter” culture, where people leave their rubbish after enjoying the great landscape is baffling. Why do people feel that they can dump rubbish, after having a great day out and enjoying all the pleasures that Kurdistan give?
Some streets clearly are better than others, but generally people suffer from a mentality of a lack of care. Improving your country starts at home. Why should you dump rubbish on your streets or behave in a certain way, because your neighbor chooses to do so?
Although, the attitude to the importance of heath has certainly improved, health dangers are not always respected. Smoking is rife in the region, foods can be oily, improving dietary needs is not always appreciated and generally some people still suffer from an “I live for today, tomorrow is tomorrow” mindset.
More Western mindsets should ensure that people plan their lives and think about tomorrow and the future. How can they improve their lives today and tomorrow? Without setting goals in society, progress is difficult.
Ties with the south
Kurds have enjoyed relative peace and prosperity, but with many issues such as article 140, federalism and hydrocarbon law hanging in the balance and a resurgent Baghdad government, has left the Kurds anxiously waiting for reconciliation.
Of the most important sticking point is the clash over the handling of the disputed territories, particularly oil-rich Kirkuk, which has served as a historic thorn between the Kurds and Arabs.
Kirkuk has almost become synonymous from an outside perceptive with a battle for control of oil. With the ever increasing war of words between Iraqi Prime Minister Nouri al-Maliki’s government and the KRG, and a desire of Baghdad to dilute Kurdish power, there is an increasing danger of clashes between both sides, with democracy seemingly shelved on certain aspects.
Travelling towards Kirkuk was a highly intriguing journey. As we headed out of Erbil and towards the flatter plains further south, the scene of the battle between Erbil and Baghdad became obvious. This part of the country is absolutely awashed with oil. Our journey from Debiga, Sargeran, Ghala, Pirde, Makhmour and Kirkuk was fascinating, as the Arab-Kurd divide become murky the further south you went. The miles of oil pipelines connecting the Kirkuk oil fields with Ceyhan in Turkey were remarkable. Flames could be seen from furnaces and local oil fields.
Ironically, a land that seemingly quenches the thirst for fuel of the much more advanced West is hardly a sight for sore eyes. The landscape and scenery itself is fantastic but the state of the houses, roads, and general services are certainly far from fitting of what is technically one of the richest areas in the whole world.
The city of Kirkuk fits the same bill. An area that has 15% of Iraq’s oil reserves has been devoid of much development over the decades. If a small fraction of the oil that it produces had been spent on the city, it could easily rival anywhere in the Middle East by now.
Feelings towards government
Iraqi Kurdish leaders such as Massaud Barzani and Jalal Talabani have played a prominent role in Kurdish nationalism and have in turn ensured that their names are firmly entered in Kurdish folklore. With Kurds growingly expectant, it almost goes without saying that whilst most Kurds are ever grateful and appreciate that achievements from a standing start have been remarkable, there is a strong feeling amongst the Kurds that this should not be used as some kind of an indefinite fallback or excuse by the government.
There exists a strong desire amongst the Kurdish population for changes in government and eradication of corruption. Judicial system lacks from transparency and independence, and although not always specific in their criticisms, reports from human rights organizations have shown that Kurdistan has still many strides to go in terms of civil liberties, enforcing the rule of law and ensuring the rights of every citizen are upheld.
Whilst the move from fighting in the mountains to serving parliament is symbolic, the political parties must also evolve with the changing times and the challenges that this brings. The upcoming elections in Kurdistan region is set to be valuable gauge in the feeling of the people and the progress of democracy in the region.
The Iraqi Kurds have been keen to open portals to the outside world, and have actively encouraged foreign investment, the opening of new consulates and cross-cultural expansion. If the KRG is able to fulfill growing expectations and their own high-ambitions, it will need all the partners and channels to propel the region forward.
There is a strong feeling amongst the population that Turkey may yet be the best bet for the advancement of the region and the gateway to Europe.
Newroz celebrations of 21st March 2009
The start of the spring equinox is the beginning of Newroz or “new day” celebrations across Kurdistan. The celebrations were officially announced with the lighting of the Newroz torch in Erbil at 18:30 on 20th March 2009. Newroz is arguably the most important date in the Kurdish calendar, marked by ubiquitous burning flames and a mass exodus of Kurds to the beautiful and scenic countryside.
The roads on the 21st of March were jam-packed from early morning. It was the first time I had experienced such a mass exodus of a city, with every family seemingly en-route to celebrations. The Erbil to Koya highway was gridlocked, with cars packed with passengers, all sorts of food items, chairs and mattresses. Such was the traffic that the traffic police had opened the opposite lane into Erbil for travelers heading out. After all there was hardly a single car coming into the city.
From the outskirts of the city onwards, the countryside was filled with families dancing, playing music and making barbeques.
Newroz is a celebration of freedom from a tyrant that once ruled, by the courage of a blacksmith. The fires symbolize the dawn of a new era and also freedom. It is celebrated across Kurdistan as a patriotic icon and has been used often, especially in Turkey, to express national sentiments and to rebel against the government.
March has proved a mystical month for Kurds, as it was also in March 1991 when the Kurds revolting against Saddam forces and attained their current autonomy and freedom.
The “other” Erbil
The much publicized new foreign style villages, modern developments and state of the art facilities on the outskirts of the city, left a feeling that there was now almost two Erbil’s. The difference in terms of standards between parts of new and old Erbil is remarkable.
With economic prosperity, come a growing rich list and an increasing middle class. Developments and the increase of the rich are fuelled by investments from Kurds abroad and the strong desire of the KRG to promote foreign investment and the modernization of the region. There is a growing demand for luxury items such as brand new cars, electronic appliances etc.
There is an evident Turkish hand in the region, with a majority of foreign products and companies Turkish based. Such companies are playing a heavy hand in the construction of new complexes and the rebuilding of others. There are also scores of Iranian food and merchandise in the region.
While investment has grown, this has not reached the level to fulfill the regions true promise. Ultimately, the Kurds seek investment from major European and American companies.
The most prominent foreign investment, much to the dismay of Baghdad, is the signing of a number of oil exploration and development contracts with small foreign oil companies.
Contrast with the rest of Iraq
While the south has suffered evident instability and pain since 2003, ironically this has been much to the advantage of the Kurdistan Region, which has for the best part managed to keep a firm distance from the insecurity and insurgency further south.
Kurds have been quick to showcase Kurdistan region as “other Iraq” and also as a gateway to Iraq itself.
Many Arabs visit the region for vacation and some have chosen to resettle altogether. The keenness of the Arabs to visit Kurdistan and enjoy its offerings is a joy to see, and demonstrates how both sides can effectively mix and benefit from the prosperity across Iraq, if fundamental differences between both sides can be bridged (I wish it was that easy in practice to bridge such gaps).
Baghdad has become increasingly wary of Kurdish power and their perceived veto status. There is a general feeling that Kurdish gains since 2003 are as a result of overreaching, and the fact that the existing constitution has afford too much power to the Kurds.
Currently, many stipulations within the constitution itself are been challenged by a new stronger and more confident Baghdad government, headed by a resurgent al-Maliki who was clearly triumphant at the recent provincial elections.
Al-Maliki, for many Iraqi’s is the strong figure needed to head Iraq and pull the country together. Kurds find themselves in an anxious position to determine how the new Iraq will shape up. Whether al-Maliki gets his wish to dilute federalism, Kurdish power and maintain a strong central control over oil and armed forces is unclear. There is a feeling that something may have to give either way.
My own experience
As much as I can enjoy the tranquility and the privileges of living in the UK for the past 20 years, my own experiences as a child have forever ensured an acute perspective on life.
Growing up as a child in poverty and in the middle of a deadly war felt like a unique experience. A young mind experiencing death of family members and the destruction of his village is decisive. This was compounded with the belief that our father was presumed killed in combat for over 5 years and with the Baathist forces constantly on the prowl for the next hapless victim.
The demolition of our home, which left us affectively homeless, provided a much needed moment of divine intervention, as we received news from Iran that our dad had been critically wounded and was permanently disabled as a result but had miraculously survived.
This started a treacherous and highly-pulsating journey across the Iran-Iraq border, as we were smuggled across the border in the middle of a bloody war and in a journey that lasted 3 days, and the crossing of tough mountainous terrains and valleys on horseback.
As if there was any respite, we were able to see the war from another perspective. We lived in Iran for 2 years and could now boast (if that is ever a good way to put it), that we had seen the war from an Iraqi Arab, Iraqi Kurdish, Iranian and Iranian Kurdish perspective!
Once in the UK, it was the start of fresh challenges, acclimatization and the start of education. Such a difference in environment, way of life and culture was mind-boggling. However, in the serenity and tolerance of the West, I was able to follow-up an immense intrigue for history books and delve into politics much deeper.
My intrigue was understandable. How could a fellow human ever inflict such barbaric acts on each other? What kind of a world did we have if thousands could savagely perish only because of their identity? What had become a shape of the world, if cries and pleas by fellow humans under the subject of torture and repression could be ignored by the self-appointed leaders of the modern age?
My own experience shaped my mindset in the most diplomatic way possible – by using productive energy and seeking to improve unity, justice and harmony in a seemingly disparate age.
However, going through Iraq, I can’t help thinking that the West does not truly understand passion or fanaticism. Humans do not always react in the same logical way. Why does man feel so strongly about a case that he is willing to blow himself up? What drives a man to seek revenge by slaying the life of another?
Problems and passions in this region are delicately intertwined and deep-rooted, some conflict running through hundreds of years. Certainly, such levels of animosity and tension are not to so easy to bridge.
I tried to use my experience and the immense suffering of family as a deep perceptive and as a spring-board to improve cross-cultural understanding, tolerance and knowledge.
I believe reconciliation is always achievable and harmony in the Middle East does not necessarily need to be a pipe dream, if there is a true desire for such a concept.
As for Iraq, it remains to be seen if the Kurds and Arabs will live in long-term unison. Past animosities and misfortunes cannot be forgotten in a hurry. That’s just the way the cookie crumbles in the Middle East.
Regardless of Western concepts and ideals such as democracy, if the principles are not affectively embraced, then the application of square pegs to a round hole is fruitless.
I anxiously await my next visit the Middle East and Iraq.